Even though many would not consider digital transfers an apt solution for high production volumes in the apparel-decorating business—and would, therefore, advocate subbing such work out to the local screen printer—17 years of experience tells me otherwise. My rule? Keep it in house and keep the profit in your pocket!

Many different formulas have been advanced to determine the volume break-even point when determining whether to screen print or stick with digital transfers. If, for example, the original is multi-color and 500 or more shirts are to be made of the same image, conventional thinking would suggest that cost per piece would most likely be less with screen printing. However, I’ve found that this is not always true, depending on the original artwork/photography to be reproduced, the type of equipment (printer versus heat press), and the transfer-media type one is using. Even though screen-printing technology today is capable of achieving high-quality photographic images better than in the past—given that the printer doing the work is at the top of his or her game—some photography is still best duplicated with laser or inkjet printing systems. This, however, is also affected by the image-reproduction quality of the transfer media being used.

Production time, original art, and per-unit cost are some of the factors to account for in determining when to use digital transfers over screen-printing technologies, according to the following evaluation criteria:

1. Time:
a. Set-up time of equipment and screens (for screen printing)
b. Speed of laser/inkjet printing system
c. Time needed to transfer onto each garment
d. Total production time

2. Original (artwork versus photograph):
a. Type of original (photographic, number of colors, multiple transfer sheets)
b. Option of customizing/personalizing (a different name on each garment and/or a limited- edition number on each garment, for artists)
c. Multiple transfer types on one garment (laser, screen print, jewels, decals, embroidery)

3. Costs:
a. Color (toner/ink)
b. Transfer paper
- Laser versus inkjet
- Photo quality of transfer paper
c. Printing equipment (screen-printing set-up versus inkjet, CLC or CLP)
d. Press equipment
- Screen-printing press versus heat- transfer press(es)
- Clamshell heat press versus swing-away heat press
- Quantity of heat presses and number of employees.

I know many embellishers who employ both screen-printing and digital-transfer systems, and who look at each job independently to determine how to proceed, based on the factors above. In many instances, the digital-transfer option turns out to be the prudent choice and laser-transfer paper is used for the large production job. So let’s take a closer look at the factors named in my outline. . . .

Production time

The ideal and fastest way to make and apply thousands of digital transfers would be to have a few laser printers, multiple heat presses, and the employees to go with it. As not all embellishers have these resources, I’ll focus on how businesses with single units of equipment are able to maximize production; for you can still produce high production volumes with one printer and one press.

The number of colors in the original does not affect the set-up time for digital printing, but is a consideration with screen printing. The speed of your printer need not be faster than the trimming and pressing time. A printer that prints five to ten pages per minute (in thick-paper mode) is more than sufficient. So, if you have the proper equipment and materials, a job of 1,000 garments (with one print of the same image on each) could take approximately four to five hours to complete.

Most laser printers/copiers have higher output speeds than inkjet printers, so laser printers would be recommended for faster production. Fully air-operated heat presses, double-platen presses, and swing-away upper-platen models allow for the fastest human-assisted production.

With a swing-away upper platen, I find it easier to place the garment, place the transfer image, remove the transfer paper, and remove the garment from the press. The swing-away configuration swings to the side and back of the press platen which enables you to have the full area for working. I find production time to be much faster with the swing-away because time is not spent being extra careful working under an angled upper platen. On the downside, swing-away models take up more space than clamshell presses. Also, a transfer paper with a high forgiveness for changes in platen temperature—as with certain specific laser papers—is a plus because it works consistently in a 50-degree range (350-400°F).

You will find, with most heat presses, platen temperatures fluctuate in high-production jobs due to the platen not being able to fully recover its heat between impressions. In some instances, a 240V model will achieve quicker heat recovery. The other alternative is to let your heat press rest a few minutes after each 20 pressings.

In my experience, most domestic heat-press manufacturers offer a quality product. So please consult your transfer-paper specialist about which brand and model best suits your production needs.

Original artwork

Determining the best way to reproduce the artwork or photograph at handⁱ is dependent upon the output quality of your printer, the pressing equipment, and the number of garments your customer is requesting. If the original is only two colors and your customer wants 1,000 shirts, I would recommend screen printing. If the original is only two colors and your customer wants only 10 shirts, I would recommend digital transfers. If the original is a colorful photograph and your customer wants 1,000 shirts, I would recommend the laser-transfer method. However, I recommend this only if you have a good production heat press, a trimmer to cutⁱ multiple transfers, high-image-quality laser-transfer paper, and a high-resolution laser printer.

If your customer requests that each image has personalization (ie: a name or a limited-edition number), each transfer becomes unique and demands a different type of production. I consider it “production” if it is a large order (over 250 garments for the same client) but you would not have screen printing as a practical option because each image would require a unique screen, and producing one garment from one screen is not cost effective. Accordingly, you should charge more for this type of job because each transfer is different, making everything more time consuming.

In addition, some jobs may require a variety of transfer types. For example, if your client wants a full-color image/photograph on the front, adhesive jewels pressed on that photo, and precut vinyl text on the back, the transfer media must be re-heatable so it will not be damaged. Paper suppliers offer a variety of digital-transfer products that can be re-heated without melting and distorting. To protect the upper heat platen in such cases, I recommend covering the image with a Teflon or non-stick baking sheet

Production costs

In general, laser-printer toner costs less per print than inkjet ink, and laser-transfer paper is generally less per sheet than inkjet paper. The per-print costs expressed in the following examples are based on quantity pricing, per sheet, for 4,000 letter-sized (8.5˝ X 11˝) sheets (or A4 European size) and a desktop printer’s cost per print, but do not include labor, equipment cost and garment cost.

Laser-transfer paper        $0.16*
Laser-toner                         $0.18
Cost/laser print                  $0.34

Inkjet transfer paper         $0.49*
Inkjet ink                             $0.55
Cost/inkjet print                 $1.04

(*based on my company’s most popular paper selections.)

Some digital-transfer papers are capable of reproducing higher photographic quality than others. When working with photographs, the photo quality of the transfer is important and worth the additional cost if that is the case.

Based on the above figure of 34 cents for each laser print, a job of 1,000 shirts would cost $340 for the printed transfers. Keep in mind that there are no screens to set up or inks to mix, and the transfers can be pressed while the printer is still outputting prints. When you look at this scenario, the job sounds pretty easy.

Now that we’ve established the low cost of laser transfers, let’s look at how to get the most value for your money when it comes to equipment. If production and high volume is the business you want, then buying a heat press that enhances your productivity is of considerable importance. For around $2,750 to $3,250 you can buy a top-of-the-line air-operated swing-away heat press. Sound like a lot? Given this expenditure, when you consider having the ability to produce an average of one additional five-dollar shirt per minute, you could be making an extra $300 every hour. The bottom line is that such a press pays for itself very fast and you put more money in your pocket.

Overall, most high production volumes can be handled by conventional digital-transfer equipment, but if you have additional questions about how to keep it in house and keep the profit in your pocket, please feel free to drop me a line!